| And speaking of frying, where would we be without the most basic kitchen essential, the cast iron skillet. It’s the most versatile of cooking implements and has been prized for hundreds of years by settlers, Native Americans and cooks all over the South.
This particular one has been in my family for well over 120 years. It was a wedding gift to my great-grandmother in 1888 and was given to me as a wedding gift by a great-aunt in 1989. I use it almost daily and without a doubt is my most prized possession.
It has been wielded by the sure hands of many of my forebears to delicious effect.
And it is treated with the reverence of a delicate piece of china. Woe be to anyone that uses soap on my well seasoned skillet! Oh, a gift or purchase of a new skillet is a good thing to be sure, but the inheritance of a well loved and well used cast iron skillet is to receiving the blessing of all the cooks that have used it before. It carries a magic all of its own. For there is literally nothing that cannot be cooked in a crusty bottomed, well seasoned cast iron skillet.
Our early ancestors valued them as well. The Indians traded for them, the early settlers and farmers used them to cook up the bounty of their land and when that bounty was scarce, when flour and lard were the only things left in the pantry, then the skillet was still the basis of a dinner of biscuits cooked in it. And they were good!
But the best thing a cast iron skillet is good for is to fry something. We’re fried everything we could get our hands out. Lard was a staple just like flour and sugar and it was used prodigiously. The early African slaves brought with them the propensity for frying in oil. But even before that, the early explorers and settlers could season a rather bland meal by frying it in pig or bear grease.. Our heritage of fried foods was forged in the backwoods and in the slave kitchens and it has endured to this day. If you don’t believe me, just take a look at how Colonel Harlan Sanders and his chain of fried chicken restaurants have circled the globe. Fried chicken is now not only enjoyed in the South, but has even reached places like Tokyo thanks to KFC.
But even before frying became the most popular form of cooking both our meat and vegetables, the Native Americans were smoking meat and teaching the settlers how to do it themselves. As early as the 18th century, “receipts” for barbeque included smoking a pig over a slow, smoky fire and basting it with a combination of wine, lemon juice and spices. Tomatoes were a very late arrival on the BBQ scene. Different styles of BBQ have developed over time and as I mentioned earlier can cause a deep rift as to sauces and even the type of meat that is smoked. Depending on the area of the South depends on whether you use a dry rub or a wet marinade, whether you use vinegar or mustard based sauce and even in some areas whether you use pork or beef. But predominantly in the South and particularly in the Carolinas, BBQ is pork! And today it’s not BBQ, if it’s not served with coleslaw and sweet tea. And a BBQ is also not a BBQ if it is not eaten in great quantities with lots of friends and family in attendance.
This brings me to the point, that as Southerners we believe that our food brings us together, whether in happy times or as comfort to the ailing and the recently bereaved. No sooner has word gotten out of a loved ones arrival at the pearly gates than the casserole brigade begins arriving. When my grandmother passed, we had barely gotten back in the house from the hospital when the doorbell rang. In fact, my mother had put her purse down and walked into the bathroom and was yelling at us from there to answer the door. On the porch was an old friend with a rice casserole ready to offer the much needed comfort of Southern sympathy in the form of food. But here’s a secret: this friend was the wife of my grandmother’s doctor, so she had gotten word sooner than most, as she had an inside connection. Still whether it’s within the hour or over the course of several days, the steady parade of visitors bringing their best foods in their best dishes is the balm to the soul of a family in grief.
While my own parents have been gone for many years and I truly do miss them, I have still not forgiven them (we do have long memories in the South) for depriving me, my siblings and family of the kindly bounty of caring friends and neighbors by opting not to have a funeral or visitation. We missed out on the stuffed eggs, pound cakes, potato salad and the many variations of the Campbell’s soup casseroles that arrive to sustain us through the arduous process of saying goodbye to our loved ones.
And honestly nothing brings out the best in Southern cooks than tragedy, sickness, death and new babies.
Minutes after Hurricane Charley had left us in ruins in SW Florida, I was in the kitchen whipping up food for those friends who suddenly had views of the big dipper from their living room sofas. And never underestimate what a Southern cook can whip up from a can of Vienna sausages, soda crackers and a can of cream of mushroom soup. We are nothing if not adaptable and creative. We’ve had to be. We’ve had close to 300 years of hardship, bad crops, wars, pestilence and famine. We’ve had to “make do” for a long time and we’re good at.
In conclusion, while Southern food has sustained us in good and bad times, while it has forged a heritage unlike any other region of the country, it is still looked down on by many that just don’t understand it or us. But we don’t care, because we know that there is NOTHING else like the foods we grew up on, that our mother’s and grandmothers and ancestors cooked and handed down over the generations along with the wonderful stories that go along with them. It ties us to our roots and helps us fondly remember those that have gone on before us. And we are working on trying to educate the rest of the world about our food traditions. We have successfully exported many of them, like BBQ, Coca-Cola and Krispy Kreme donuts. But sadly, grits have not taken on like that triumvirate. I’ve had Coca-cola at the foot of the great pyramid in Egypt and in front of the Taj Mahal, but you cannot get grits in either of those places. So while we have sent Coca-cola, fried chicken and BBQ around the world, let’s hope that our heritage and proclivity for grits and sweet tea will not be far behind in the near future. |